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A
A very good place to start is the Mayor's
website - information on Public Firework displays,
Festivals, Parades, closures, events calendar etc.
Click HERE
Abortion - see pregnancy
Accommodation - see our Hotels
page. You can arrange a hotel through the tourist
office, Thomas Cook or at the Airports and Train
Stations. To book online try either the VENERE ONLINE HOTEL RESERVATION
SERVICE or LATEROOMS HOTEL BOOKING SERVICE
both offer good discounts. These are our first ports
of call when booking, but not always the ultimate.
If using TripAdvisor.com for hotels remember that
reports by American reviewers are either too prissy
(imagine Princess Leia from Star Wars, or any girl
from the same Valley) or too gushing (have seen Amelie
and Mary Poppins at least fifty times). If Brits
complain about the food then it really IS bad. If
Americans complain about the cooking assume there is
under 3Lbs of meat per person per meal - and so on.
See our trips page for
details of how to rent one of the Queen's own
guesthouses on her Sandringham estate. TOP TIP: in
summer months stay in student rooms at the LSE (see
accommodation page for details).
Architecture: One of the glories of London is
the variety of styles of architecture (one of the
glories of London is the variety of everything.)
In Chester you can view every major style of
architecture since 800AD in one street (Watergate
street), however in London you have to travel a bit.
Most of our walks are architecture based, however a
good guide is from the Independent Newspaper of 4.8.01
whose opinions we totally agree with. It lists the 50
best buildings in Britain.
Shortlist: Westminster Tube station, British
Museum great court, Lloyd's Building (on our City
Walk), St Pancras Station (Mon-Fri 11.30-15.30 tel:
0207 304 3900), St Paul's, Sir John Soane museum (on
our Temple to Temple walk), Michelin Building (South
Kensington, near the Albert Memorial), The Barbican,
The Prudential Building (see our City Walks page),
Peckham Library (there is no reason to visit
Peckham), Tate Modern (see our Walks), Somerset
House (ditto), Sainsbury Wing of the National
Gallery. To which we'd add the Inns of Court, St
Bartholomew's Church, Hampton Court and The Ark in
Hammersmith. See these and you've sucked the best
out of London's architecture.)
For architecture/design on a small scale the steel
gents urinals at the back of St Martin's in the Fields
Church, just north of Charing Cross are a marvel of
both function and design - and keep the pavements dry
when people stagger out of pubs. These worthy
descendants of Clochmerle close automatically during
the day and open at night (like jasmine, but not as
sweet) - they really have to be seen to be
appreciated!
Art Galleries - see our art
page.
B
Banks: normally open 09:30 - 16:30, the number
of high-street banks is getting smaller. If you're
stuck for a cashmachine (ATM) the supermarkets will do
'cashback' if you buy something - ask at the till. The
best place to find an ATM/Cashpoint is usually a train
or tube station. Watch out for the increasing number
of ATMs that charge a fee - Travelex bought out a
chain of free ATMs and have started charging. We don't
approve, especially as many banks are cutting ATMs out
of poorer areas. It is possible to be in a the centre
of town and 1/2 mile plus away from a free ATM. Free
ATMs will always tell you they're free 'We will not
charge you for withdrawals' though of course, if
you're in a foreign country (ie the UK) expect to pay
£2-3 per withdrawal so keep them few and large.
Begging:Especially in Summer there are beggars
in the centre and despite what they say they are
rarely homeless or hungry - there are so many
charities offering them free food and lodging. They
are collecting for heroin, alcohol or tobacco. Many
who sleep on the streets have been banned from hostels
for assaulting other inmates patients or stealing from
them, or are too intoxicated to be safely admitted. If
you feel the need to give, please give to a charity
like the Salvation Army, whose entire London operation
(from Detox, to homeless hostels to geriatric centres)
we have personally inspected and found first rate
(though we disagree with their religion).
'The Big Issue' a dreadful magazine is sold by
the 'homeless' on the streets in a scheme that we've
seen operating in every big city we've visited. It's
slightly better buying a copy than giving drug/alcohol
money to a beggar (though we suspect it's the same by
just one remove) - and the sellers are supposed to
abide by a courtesy code - there have been some
prosecutions up north for links with the organised
drug trade. It's spawned a rather fashionable industry
of 'help for the homeless' and is used to give
products 'street cred'. It also pursues a rather
aggressive marketing policy and is aligning itself
with big business in a way that makes it as much a
part of of the problem as the solution. We much prefer
the 'Salvation Army' (and we're not christians at all)
which, surprisingly has a less cultish grip on the
problem. For another opinion see HERE
Blue Plaques - mark the residences of famous
people - who have to have been dead at least 20 years.
Everybody who was anybody has lived in London at some
point from Napoleon III and Ho Chi Minh in St James -
Karl Marx and Mozart in Soho - Lenin in Bloomsbury and
Hendrix in Mayfair. Of course there's rarely any
current connection between the building and its former
occupant. Our favourite plaque is for Logie Baird,
discoverer of TV, who demonstrated that frightful
invention above Soho's most famous cafe. There is
still a television in the room, but the picture
quality has improved.
BOOKS - a short list:
Eric Newby wrote two classic books. You'll
never really understand the British unless you read
them. The last Grain Race is a Jack
Londonesque tale of his days at sea... well observed
and highly amusing. If you hated Moby Dick you'll
love this. If you're Norweigian you might not.
A short walk in the Hindu Kush is perhaps
the greatest travel book ever written (with the
exception of the Grain race...) two upper class
Brits, who've never climbed before, decide to go to
one of the most dangerous areas of the world and
climb one of its highest peaks. They're not put off
by being 'out-climbed' by the waitresses of the
Welsh B and B where they're staying. Hilarious
Jerome K Jerome's Three Men in a boat is
the tale of three inept pre-war Brits who attempt to
navigate the Thames in a small boat with a dog
called Montmorency but crucially, without a
can-opener.. I was forced to read this aloud at
school and had to stop for laughing. None of us in
class were able to continue and the English lesson
deteriorated into general mayhem when our beloved
Litt. teacher joined in. I re-read it every five
years or so and still laugh aloud. Good natured
fun-poking at Brits and Britishness. All three above
books good for train journeys.
Samuel Pepys Diary - especially volumes
covering 1666 onwards: everyday life under the
Stuarts, warts and all. Includes eye-witness
accounts of the plague, the Great Fire, and his
neighbour's wife's sexual habits.
The Rachel Papers, London Fields - Martin
Amis' life as a teenager (1970s) or as a yob (1980s)
in London's louche underbelly.
The Glittering Prizes - Frederick Raphael:
The quintessential Oxbridge/London novel (1960s) -
quite accurate.
Absolute Beginners - Colin McInnes: perhaps
the best London novel, set when the old London was
dying (end of '50s)and the new commercial age
dawning, good account of the race riots and the
birth of the cool. A darn sight better than the dim
but stylish movie of the same name.
The Quincunx - Charles Palliser: the real
Victorian London, ripped off by Michael Faber in his
latest tome 'The Crimson Petal'. This 1000 page book
is the only one we have read from cover to cover
without a break. The second best insight an American
has had into the Brits.
Northern Lights - Philip Pullman: the
alternative Oxford novel, for kids and imaginative
adults. Rowling with brains and erudition.
Anything by Bill Bryford: eg notes from a
small island:this anglophile Yank is a cross between
Garrison Keillor and Michael Moore. Perhaps the best
travel companion for modern Britain.
Party Going - Henry Green: set almost
entirely in Charing Cross Station, the best
exposition of the lives of the bright young things
since Waugh, but not as twee.
A Dance to the Music of Time - Anthony
Powell: 12 short books that make up a roman fleuve,
addictive once you're into it (the first volume, set
in a public school is essential for character's
motivation but not as appealing as a book per se)
All the characters are real, slightly disguised. See
also below.
Bridget Jones' Diary and Bridget Jones,
the edge of reason Helen Fielding's fairly
accurate account of the rise of the ladettes.
Bridget lives a stone's throw from our office, in
Borough Market, where they're filming the second
book as we write this. A cautionary tale for any
male hoping to pick up a female Londoner while he's
here.
as DVDs: 'Our Mutual Friend' (BBC) - the best
historical adaptation ever. So beautiful you can
freeze frame and it's like a Victorian painting.
Almost a tour guide to the real Victorian London.
'The office' BBC's most successful programme
- in terms of audience and sales, the life of
no-hopers in a Slough office - hilarious and
cringemaking - the fastest selling DVD in the UK.
Watch the two series in order. We actually prefer
the American version (well, series two and much of
series three...).
Fawlty Towers (BBC): need we say more? The
funniest TV programme ever, often imitated, never
equalled.
Monty Python's Flying Circus: (BBC) students
of British history should watch this as the Pythons
were an reaction to the staid 50s and early 60s. Get
the 'best of' as there was a lot of dross later.
'A Dance to the Music of time' (Channel 4)
not as good as the books, but a great English Social
History from the 30s to the 70s, Britain's answer to
Proust, but more readable and with shorter
sentences.
Bookshops: Cecil Court, just south of Wyndham's
Theatre, Leicester Square tube, Skoob in the Brunswick
Centre at Russel Square (huge underground warren) and
the bouquinists under Waterloo Bridge (south side) are
the best places for second hand books. For new ones
the upper half of Charing Cross road teems with dead
trees.
Botox: We do get some strange requests. For
most cosmetic surgical procedures fly to Jo'burg and
you'll save much more than the cost of your flight,
hotel and safari. However if you want a quick fix of
Botox when in London, the Cath Corbett clinic, South
Molton St, behind Bond St tube is the place.
Brothels: While we don't approve of paid-for
sex, we recognise it happens and would prefer it
regulated, and trafficking stomped out. Sex is
ridiculously easy to come by in London, on average
£62 for the full monty, which we think is far
too cheap, considering that foot massage is about
£75 an hour - and we certainly value our feet
less than.... If you do visit a
brothel please try to find a decent one and use
protection. See here
for details of London's sex trade. You might also
want to read Belle de
Jour's blog - she is a female research scientist
who doubled as a high-end prostitute to finance her
degree. Shame on a country that can't do better for
science, we say. She's still a hot cookie by all
accounts.
Buses - you now have
to buy your ticket before you board the bus if you
don't have a travelcard or Oystercard . Many stops now
have automated ticket machines- the number of stories
we've heard about people putting their last coins into
these machines and getting nothing out and no refund
and then being refused on busses mounts. Do not trust
these machines. You can buy bus passes in a lot of
newsagents. A bus pass is only about £3 a day so
best to buy one rather than a ticket. It's always
cheaper to use an Oyster card - you have to pay a
£3 deposit but you get that back when you hand
it back in, and kids go free. See our transport page
Bus tours: Start out from all the major
attractions and seem to congregate around the top of
Haymarket, near Piccadilly, and on Lower Regent Street
- there's also a large dropping off point by the Tower
of London. Before you consider taking a bus tour read
this article from Britain's leading
newspaper about the state of bus tours in
London. There's cut-throat competition between the
companies, all of which advertise as 'Official Tour
Buses' - all this means is that they're licenced to do
tours and implies no endorsement. The price - around
£18 is a lot more than simply bus hopping with
an Oystercard (£3) but still lower than similar
tours in other countries.
bustours
Most of them are on the internet: Big
Bus tours and The Original Tour. In general
you get a commentary and to see all the major sights
in one trip - tickets are valid for the whole day
(check this before you get on) and you can jump on and
off as you wish - so if you want to do Buckingham
Palace, Tower Bridge, The Tower etc in a day it works
out more economical. The ticket usually includes a
free river cruise and a free walking tour. They also
sell advance tickets for attractions such as Tussaud's
and the Tower (which can save you hours of queueing.)
If you are dedicating your day to 'doing the sights'
then you might think a London
Pass museum and attractions pass will save you
money.It won't, unless you can travel at supersonic
speed. We think you'll have more fun doing our walks,
and see more, but if you don't like walking then a bus
tour is as good a way as any to see the city.
Another alternative which should please the children
is Duck Tours - in an amphibious DUKW truck that
actually drives off the embankment and into the Thames
(don't tell the kids about this in advance) they're
online here - their ticket office is at
55 York Road, directly behind the London Eye wheel.
The price is relatively steep at £17.50 for an
adult and £12 for a child - there is a family
ticket available at £53.
You can do it all for 'free' on London's regular
double-decker red buses, but they don't usually drive
into the river. See our free page.
Buying a house/banking Is expensive in London.
See this excellent article for
details. Expect to pay £170k minimum for a
one-bed, £230k for a two-bed for an ex-council
property, some of which are surprisingly OK. Best
trendy areas: Arnold Circus (Hoxton/Brick Lane) is
onto a second wave. Elephant and Castle - ghastly now
but due for a European Parliament-funded refit - is a
good bet for longer term investment. bermondsey -
close to town (you can walk home from the centre)
cheap and very 'old London' the last refuge of the
cockneys after the Bangladeshis conquered the East
End. Vauxhall - creeping upwards slowly, still the
cheapest and best place for a riverside view but the
building you'll be looking out of will be ugly.. W1 -
surprisingly bargains can be had in the centre, if you
look for a former 'council' or 'housing association'
property, built before 1940 - the best are Victorian
or Edwardian.
The process will take 3 months from putting an offer
on a property thru 'exchanging contract' to
'completing'. It can be a nightmare if you are foreign
as you won't have the necessary bits of paper (utility
bills) and despite claiming to do so most banks won't
accept foreign driving licences or other documents.
Getting a bank account in this country is an essential
first step which will cause you untold grief due to an
over-zealous application of anti-moneylaundering laws
and general stupidity. It is like waking up in a Kafka
novel. Most banks are run from call-centres in the
north, or overseas, leaving unskilled and brain-dead
clones in their branches. Try an internet bank like
First Direct (highly recommended), and avoid the Coop
bank and its online subsidiary, Smile as they may be
ecological and ethical, but they are cretinous and
will cause you grief. HSBC is a very good bet as it's
all over the world.
C
Camera repairs: Sendean, 105 Oxford St W1 tel:
0703 439 8418, Camera City 16 Little Russell St WC1
(near British Museum) 0207 813 2100
Canals: The section that runs from Camden to
'Little Venice' out in Maida Vale (though
the comparisons with Venice are a bit hyperbolic) is a
pleasant walk past the zoo. There's also a decent, if
short, walk to be had from Warwick Road tube station
(best stop for Little Venice) along the canal to
Edgeware Road and back. Lunch/drink at the Prince
Albert on Formosa Avenue. For a tour on a narrowboat
try Camden Lock (just opposite the market on the
canalside) or Little Venice on the canalside just west
of the island.
Car Hire: All the usual global companies
operate in London. eg: Budget:- 0207 580 8685
Europcar:- 0207 387 2276 Hertz:- 0207 278 1588
Online hire: 1car1
An alternative is the 'by the hour' rental companies
like
Easycar or
Streetcar with very low basic rates including by
the hour - but the 'extras' in the small print can add
up considerably. For under 5 hours and over 3 days
Streetcar gets more competitive. Our editor personally
recommends Holiday Autos who he has
found by far the cheapest option, about half the cost
of going to one of the big agencies (often the car
will come from them anyway) they're on: 0870 400 4447.
A good rate can also be had out of
Sixt< /a>, who have a depo right next to
Hatton Cross tube station (near Heathrow) and this
makes for a quick getaway if you're heading west or
northwest...our last car hire was from them - they
were the cheapest for a Volkswagen Golf.
Cemeteries apart from Highgate which has
famous names and is a regular attraction, Nunhead
Cemetery in South London is a great place to get the
gothic creeps. It's really semi abandoned, with
headstones, monuments and nooks stretching back into
the trees. See here for some pics.
Centre of London is Charing Cross, a good
place to meet up if you get lost. There's a cafe in
the crypt of St Martin's Church which is in Trafalgar
Square.
Chemists (pharmacists) - Boots or Superdrug
offer the best deals. Supermarkets offer basic
supplies, aspirin, cough medicine etc and are open
late. 24 hour chemist: Zafash 233 Old Brompton Road,
SW5, Bliss at Marble Arch. Boots at Piccadilly is open
late.
Churches: Catholic: Westminster Cathedral,
Victoria or Brompton Oratory, Knightsbridge, Anglican:
St Paul's Cathedral, Methodist: Central Hall opposite
Parliament, Baptist: Elephant & Castle's
Metropolitan Tabernacle, Quaker: Meeting House, St
Martin's Lane, Lutheran: St Annes, Gresham Street,
Orthodox: (Russian) Cathedral just north of Brompton
Oratory in Knightsbridge, (Greek) in Moscow Road
Bayswater, as well as Christian Scientist, Mormon, and
various other modern cult meeting places, across town.
Services in French, German, Italian, Welsh, Finnish
and a host of other languages - see the Yellow Pages.
See also our City and City Walks pages for
details of historic churches worth visiting. A good
guide to church services in the city is theCity
Events List which also lists recitals, concerts
and lectures.
Clothes repairs and alterations: Most of the
buildings on Brewer Street in Soho, and on Carnaby
Street, have tailors on the first floor - look on the
doorplates. See 'Dry Cleaning' below for a good repair
& alterations tailor
Coaches: Victoria coach station, just behind
the train station is the main terminus, and is
efficient and clean - it has left luggage. If you book
trains in advance they compare favourably with coaches
on price, but always beat them on time and effort.
Crime: violence is quite rare, and often
localised to housing estates (projects) in slum areas.
Britons often get boistrous when drunk, but rarely
violent. The major worry is pickpockets - gangs of
professional Italian and Spanish (and increasingly
East European) pickpockets have infested the centre
each summer for years, they are increasingly being
supplemented by illegal immigrants and refugees, who
are more desperate. Guard your bags and pockets.
Mugging is rare. Normal caution advised. You can check
the latest London crime statistics here .
River Cruises - depart from all the usual
points - on the embankment just below Westminster
Bridge, and on the other side of the river - look out
for the piers. The 'guided' part of the tour as the
guide explains is discretionary and they usually
expect a tip - except for the large bateau-mouches
where a commentary is compulsory. Some of the guides
are good fun and knowledgable. We advise going one way
to Greenwich and the other way via the Docklands Light
Railway - see 'trips' for
further details.
D
Disabled Information: Yourable,
a commercial database, or the campaigning group, RADAR
,are the best sources of information.
Dentists: Denplan, 330 Vauxhall Bridge Road,
opposite Victoria Station 0207 834 2967, Denplan group
have clinics across town, call 0800 401 402 (toll
free).
Dirty weekends: A dirty weekend is a weekend
overnighter trip organised around having sex. It has
nothing to do with off-road cycling, time is spend in
the saddle, but to much better effect. It gains its
qualifier from the time when most hotels wouldn't
allow unmarried couples to stay. Hence the popular
hotel guide 'Mr and Mrs Smith' from the false registry
entry couples used. See out tripspage
for recommendations....
Dry cleaning: Sketchley's branches all over
London. They'll also do minor clothes repairs. A good
quick repairer is 'A1' on the corner of Berwick and
D'Arbley streets in Soho.
Drugs: this website does not condone or
encourage the sale or consumption of illegal drugs.
The borders of Soho or King's Cross together with
Martin Amis's local pub near Kensington Park Street in
Notting Hill are the usual selling points. You can
'legally' buy dope at Brixton station - it's difficult
to avoid the pushers who come on the hard sell.
Lambeth Borough Council decriminalised cannabis use,
in an experiment and Parliament has just changed the
classification of cannabis from a 'B' to a 'C'
drug,though there's increasing pressure to reverse
this. You'll be given a warning and the drug will be
confiscated - dealers are usually arrested. Anyone
smoking an intoxicating substance in the presence of
other members of the public who don't wish to become
intoxicated themselves, is liable for punishment -
smoke it where we have to breathe it in and we'll
personally turn you in. Otherwise, puff away...
E
Emergencies: ring 999 from any phone and
you'll be connected to the Police, Fire or Ambulance
service.
Enclaves (for hunting down ethnic food...): Jewish:
Stamford Hill (Orthadox) Golder's Green/Finchley
(liberal), Portuguese: Between Oval and
Stockwell tubes. Turkish: Green Lanes/Dalston.
Vietnamese: Kingsland Road (north of
Shoreditch), Chinese: Wembley, Charlton. Trendy
middle-class whites: Stoke Newington Church St,
Shoreditch/Hoxton, Bermondsey St. Affluent middle
class whites: Battersea, Clapham, Lamb's Conduit
St. Filthy rich boho: Chelsea, Filthy rich
conservative: Chiswick, Irish: Kilburn,
Black African: Peckham, Carribean:
Brixton, Clapton ('murder mile'), Russian: (poor)
Neasden (rich) Hampstead, Chelsea. Arab:
Mayfair, Edgeware Road. White trash:
Bermondsey. Indian subcontinent: East End
(Bengali) Hounslow/Southall (Indian). Newham
(Pakistani) etc etc etc. It was a surprise to this
author to find not one but three separate groups of
London Bolivians in the annual Thames parade -
Events, public see the Mayor's website - Click
HERE
F
Festivals Lots of them, mostly free, therefore
covered in our FREE page under concerts.
Film Sets: Bridget Jones was filmed in Borough
market (as were Lock Stock & Two Smoking barrels
and a host of other recent films). Ken Loach and other
recent neo-realist films, along with many of the b
& w Ealing comedies were shot around the back of
King's Cross Station in streets such as Cheney Road.
Oliver, Still Crazy and a host of other films were
shot in Bermondsey Street and Butler's Wharf opposite
the Tower. Interiors are usually shot in the Pall Mall
clubs on a weekend when they're closed.
Food shopping: plenty of supermarkets open til
late in the centre: eg. Sainsbury's at the south end
of Tottenham Court Road, Tesco, near Bond Street Tube
on Oxford Street, and in Covent Garden. Brewer Street
(vide infra) near Piccadilly has a wide range of
delicatessens, health food shops, organic supermarkets
(including one Japanese supermarket). This road has
totally changed over the past two years and now you
can find prosciutto where prostitution was the norm
and porcini where there was pornography [that's enough
colour..Ed.]. The best Ice cream is to be found at the
Japan Centre on Piccadilly itself, only three
flavours, but we've not tasted better on the planet.
For a good half day out, do as Londoners do and go to
Borough market on a Saturday. Crowded, yes, but if
it's not sold here you can't eat it. Loads of
restaurants. Good place for breakfast/brunch midweek
too and you can take the tube there (London Bridge)
and walk back along the river.
G
Gambling: London's casinos attract the rich
and glamorous and it must be said, the addicted and
the bored. There is a carefully crafted air of glamour
and luxury - free food (though not drink - that would
break the gaming laws) and smart surroundings (but the
croupier/es will be dressed dowdily - anything else
would be an illegal 'enducement' to gamble), but
beyond that it is a losers' haunt.
Casinos are members only clubs - you cannot join and
play the same day, and you can at any time be
suspended and barred entry. This is most likely if you
win. If you win on blackjack - more than the (very)
odd occasion, your photo will soon be posted round the
other casinos and you will find yourself totally
unable to gamble in London. Only losers are allowed
back in.
If you can resist the pull of the tables, the food is
usually very good and cheap. It is also an excellent
place to see human nature at its worst. In Soho, after
midnight, Chinese gamblers take over waving wads of
fifty-pound notes and chain-smoking. On Edgeware Road
it's all bored oil-sheiks wasting their patrimony.
Also be aware that gambling debts are unenforcable
under law - when a bookmaker or casino pays you it
does so as a 'gentlemen's agreement' - and of course,
most of the time you're not dealing with gentlemen.
Gay London: Soho and Earl's court are the two
major areas where you will be able to plug in to the
local information networks.
Genealogy Try the London Profiler Site . It
tracks data such as ethnicity, education and class and
maps them onto the city. You can see where all the
French, Chinese or Italian people in london live,
where areas of social deprivation are. To
see where people sharing a name live in London (or
anywhere else for that matter, try the
onomap
Gifts: See our shopping page. We're constantly
being pestered to sell posters of London from our
site. However if you do want some excellent
poster-size prints of London, this
exhibition , which is occasionally on Hungerford
Bridge (Charing Cross - South Bank) offers them for
sale. Some really excellent pictures and well worth a
visit to the site or the bridge to have a look.
Guides: Official London Guides wear the 'blue
badge' which certifies their knowledge and there are a
number of walking tours which are excellent. Caveat
emptor if the guide is not a 'blue badge' but there
are many good guides who don't have the badge. One
such guide is HERE though we do not endorse
any individual guides. This is another tour
guide/company: HERE
H
Harry Potter: Platform 9 3/4
at King's Cross/St Pancras station... the queue of
mug(gle)s waiting to have their photograph taken can
get 30-40 long... it's just a plaque up against a wall
and a luggage trolley that has got half way thru...but
your kids will want to see it, strangely most visitors
appear to be Sino-Japanese adults!
Healthy Food/Lifestyle. The Organic
supermarket 'Fresh and Wild' at 69 Brewer St, just
behind Piccadilly Circus, is one of the best though it
is facing stiff competition from America's leading
chain which has its first, and we suspect not its
last, base in Kensington High Street. See also Borough
Market. Brewer street is fast becoming one of the best
places for food shopping in London.
Historic buildings: visit our Historic section. The best
way to learn about the history of London is to visit
the Museum of London.
We also recommend walking round the City, from the
Inns of Court via Fleet Street to St Pauls and beyond
to the Bank.
Holidays The official UK holidays, as ordained
by the government, are detailed HERE . Generally a lot of
things are open on most holidays, as Britons love to
shop - the only real exceptions are Christmas Day
(most things closed but a few restaurants and some
bars will be open) and New Year's Day (when it falls
on a Monday).
Remember that Christian holidays are generally not as
strictly celebrated in non-christian families, so many
Chinese and Indian sub-C businesses may well be open
even then. Britons are not religious generally, apart
from the 10% who are happy-clappy or babushka
believers, and members of muslim immigrant families.
The other 90% are more interested in having a good
time and therefore drive the blooming pub & club
scene. No-one will mind if you want to observe a
religious holiday yourself, but people WILL object if
you try to force others to do so...
Hotels see our Hotels
page.
I
Internet access: go to EasyEverything (big
branches close to Charing Cross, Tottenham Court road
and Bond Street tube stations.) Very cheap, fast
access, crowded - £1 for 6 hours surfing at
night. The top end of Charing Cross Road (just South
of Tottenham Court Road tube station) has a cluster of
cheap internet cafes with very cheap rates - cheapest
is actually in the subway under Centre Point.
J
Jewellers - a large selection in Hatton Garden
EC1. Remember to haggle, the dealers come from haggle
cultures.
K
Kids - see our 'Children's
London' page
L
Language Schools: clustered around Oxford
Street and Charing Cross Road. You won't recoup your
costs by leafleting outside with the other forlorn
types. Flyers are handed out all over London. Orwell
has a lot to say on the activity in 'Down and Out in
London and Paris'. Many language schools are fronts
for 'Student Visa' scams where you register as a
student, then buy an attendance record with your (full
time) earnings.
Lawyers: In the first case you would see a
Solicitor, who would arrange for a Barrister to
represent you in court if the case arose. Arrange
through the Law Society (in office hours) on 0870 606
6575. Out of office hours, the Police will have a
local list, ask them to remove the handcuffs so you
can dial.
Left Luggage: at all major train stations. If
you liked 'The importance of being Ernest' you'll want
to leave your handbag at Victoria Station.
M
Lost Property: on public transport - go to 200
Baker St (well signposted from the tube station). It
costs £3 to do the necessary paperwork if they
find your property (nothing to register a loss).
Property lost in a Taxi will cost a fortune to
recuperate as the Taxi drivers expect to be paid for
handing it in, and there's a £10 charge and tax.
Other transport professionials do not charge for this
kindly civic action and the recuperation charge is
correspondingly smaller.
Maps: To orient yourself in a basic
way about the various regions of London see our
interactive
Orientation page. If you want a simple
sheet map grab one of the free bicycle route maps of
London - it doesn't matter for what area, they all
carry a very detailed map of the centre on the
reverse...best sheet map we've come across. You can
get them all over (Transport for London will even send
them out, possibly to your hotel from their site - see
our transport page), but the Tourist Office at 1 Lower
Regent Street always has a pile - no-one, it seems is
interested in cycling round the grimmer bits of South
East London. As of November 2009 they were on the
second leaflet rack on the left, upstairs - but these
things tend to change.
Tube maps and other goodies are available at all tube
stations - the most convenient is the visitors guide
map, tubes and buses and other info - fits in your
pocket. A good basic map of the tourist attractions
and how to get to them is here. And there's an
interactive online tourist map here However for
handy reference, we recommend you buy an A-Z of London
- widely available at bookshops and souvenir shops
across town (probably the best place is in WH Smith -
there's a branch in every airport and station).
London's streets are notoriously tricky to track down
- we use our A-Z every day. And the Geographer's
Company A-Z map has a fine pedigree, founded by an
entreprising woman who got lost in London in the
1930's - self-financed and run as a trust and still
the best. For a good map on the web try StreetMap.co.uk
- for a map of the exact centre follow this link from which go
North-West for Soho, South-West for Buckingham Palace,
East for Tower Bridge - and so on - you can also view
an aerial picture of the map reference.
Also, new on the web is an interactive map with
photos, well worth taking a look, it's HERE
Medical - the main hospitals are on the
outskirts of the city, though the Middlesex is in the
centre, north of Oxford Street. St Thomas' Hospital
next to Westminster Bridge has a good emergency
department, Guys, at London Bridge, has a very good
minor injuries clinic. There's a good 'drop in'
medical centre at Waterloo Station, and near Carlisle
St in Soho.
Money - you'll probably need more than you
think - unless you follow our advice. London is
something to experience rather than a series of
tourist traps. Watch out for the increasingly
prevalent cash machines owned by Travelex which charge
large sums for withdrawals. Always better to use an
official bank machine. They will tell you they give
free cash withdrawals - which is true unless you're
not a Brit, in which case they will always give you a
better deal than the Travelex/link rip-off machines.
London is an expensive city: do read this excellent article before
you come. Despite the cost it's worth it, but start
trying to save money from day one. See our free pages
- you can have a lot of fun on an Oyster card for
£6 a day, plus meals and accommodation, if
you're forewarned.
Museums - see our Museums
page.
N
Network Southeast card gives you 1/3 off off-peak
fares in the south of England. Will pay for itself
quickly as you need only one for four people traveling
together. Also gives you reductions on one day tube
passes - if bought through a machine at a rail
station. Still excellent value if you use the rail
network. However the rules have changed: see Transport page.
O
Outdoor activity and Sports - see our active page
Oystercards:
the rechargeable ticket for all of London's transport
- indispensible. You can buy one before you
arrive here and get it delivered
to save queuing.
PQ
Paris - veuillez regarder notre guide a Paris ICI .
Pharmacy - see 'chemist'
Phones: most phoneboxes take money as well as
phonecards and credit cards. A high proportion now
take Euros - they have a large yellow sticker usually
on the door outside or just above the phone. You can
buy phonecards at a newsagent or there are dispensing
machines at postoffices and large stations. Most
European cell phones work within the UK, though at a
premium rate, a lot of US phones won't, though that's
improving. A lot of people just hire. We think a
better option, if you're here for any length of time,
or use your phone a lot, is to buy a cheap 'pay as you
use' phone (the cheapest we've seen is £30)and
link to Virgin. We are not endorsing them but their
rates are very straightforward (15 p a minute for the
first 5 calls, 5p a minute thereafter, texts 10p) and
their ansafone service is free (useful if callers are
in a different timezone). You can' top up' with
scratchcard vouchers or your credit card. We have used
them: the cheapest call that can be made from a
phonebox costs 20p. With the March 2004 bombings in
Madrid being triggered by mobile phone, if you do hire
or buy a phone there may be security checks,
especially if you're not a WASP.
Police: the 'bobby' on the beat makes a real
effort to be nice - you can ask them directions,
advice etc. If it's simply a matter of advice they are
very good, if you get in trouble they can become quite
suspicious and have a tendency to racism - highlighted
in a recent government report. However, compared with
other country's police forces they score very highly -
most of them don't carry guns. When they do they're
very highly trained, but, sadly, often commanded by
moronic zealots, as the hearing into the shooting at
Stockwell station tragically revealed. Also when
policing demonstrations (virtually illegal under New
Labour who do not brook any opposition), they tend to
hit anyone who they don't like the look of, then lie
about it (search for the investigation into the death
of Tomlinson), so avoid large crowds shouting slogans.
Complaints against police brutality are generally
ignored or rejected, whatever the evidence (especially
into the paramilitary wing, the TSG) and complainants
may be harassed, whilst the thuggish elements in the
force go unpunished. On the positive, increasing
amounts of paperwork means charges are often not
pressed for 'minor' crimes so a caution can be
administered for, say, assault, robbery, etc, and the
chap who stole your wallet and struck your partner
will be free to do so again within minutes. If you're
a miscreant this should warm the cockles of your
heart.
Pregnancy and Abortion Marie Stopes Clinics offer all
the necessary advice, support and services, including
emergency contraception.
Pubs - see our food and
drink page.
Queues: are long and there's a strict code of
behaviour - see our tickets and
queues advice page.
R
Religion - England is perhaps one of the least
religious countries of the world - a healthy
scepticism and a resigned stoicism are the general
norm. Catholic mores are not part of the national
psyche and puritainism left with the Mayflower in the
17th Century.
However, there is a strong belief in what is 'right
and proper' especially among the lower classes. Church
attendance is low, though there are plenty of churches
throughout the capital - the South East is largely
Baptist, the East End Catholic, the North Jewish and
the West Church of England.
Libertarianism flourishes but it's more a tolerant
laissez-faire attitude than the aggressive American
kind. In the City of London, Mammon is the only god
worshiped, despite the highest concentration of
Churches in England. Church and State have been
separate since the time of Henry VIII.
British Quakerism is strongly allied with the
pacifist, anti-nuclear, internationalist movements and
encompasses a quiet pantheism. There are plenty of
Hindus, who have their own temple in Neasden which is
quite pretty and counts Prince Charles among its
admirers . The central Mosque in Regent's park is a
neat fusion of English and Islamic art, and the East
End is peppered with old synagogues. Stamford Hill
(orthodox) and Golders Green are very Jewish
communities in North London. See Churches and Temples
above
Rest of the UK : OK, OK.. we concede that there
are great things to do outside London. Like visiting
Edinburgh, Cambridge or Bath. Walking in the
Lake district is a particular favourite of ours. By
popular request we've included a summary of what's
best and how to pack it all in by rail or car. We also
show you how to 'do' the UK (by rail) for £60 a
person (excluding hotels and food, of course). See our
'Rest of UK' page for
details.
Retro : Clothing in Monmouth street, where it's
been sold for centuries, at Camden Market (good for
retro furniture as well) and upstairs at the Salvation
Army Shop, round the back of their Kingdom Hall on
Princes St. For other retro experiences London's
answer to NY's east Village (though we suspect it is
the question...) is Shoreditch/Hoxton - basically from
Liverpool St Station, up Brick Lane (very very trendy
near the old brewery) and through towards Hoxton
Square superb on a Sunday.
Rooftop dining/Drinking : Several of these,
from Tower 42 in the City, through
the Oxo Tower , The Park Lane Hilton (rooftop bar
closed until March 2006) or Harvey Nicks .
S
Sport: see our active
page.
Stamps: buy at newsagents in books of 4 or 10 -
but for international stamps visit a post office,
there's a large one next to St Martins-in-the-fields
church in Trafalgar Square. As of date of writing the
closing of sub post offices is continuing apace and
the privatisation-by-stealth is continuing. Lots of
temporary staff are being hired at low wages and often
with less than perfect grasp of English. Parcels and
letters are going astray at record rates (we've had 2
parcels, one recorded letter and two other letters
lost by the post office in the past three months).
Sadly the managers are more interested in working out
ways to retain their jobs and increase their pay than
improve service. Don;t assume that because you've sent
a letter it will arrive.
T
Tailoring: Saville Row area for gents and
ladies tailoring - the best in the world. See our Shopping page for details.
Terrorism London is a safe city - in the 4
years preceding the July 7 bombings fewer people were
killed by terrorism than by falling elephants (3
people were felled by the beasts in 2 years!). However
no capital city in the developed world is entirely
safe. British anti-terrorist police are pretty good
and our intelligence is excellent - once a danger is
exposed the loose ends get tied very efficiently,
though if you're Brazilian don't run for the tube.
Britain's Islamic community has pledged to help root
out extremism and we think the next five years will
see a sea change in attitudes of and towards muslims-
but this is more dependent on 'moderate' muslims
taking the lead. Londoners are generally aware of the
risks of suspicious parcels, and buildings and
stations are often evacuated 'just in case' when there
is no real danger. Hours before we wrote this we were
evacuated from a street in the centre while police did
a controlled explosion on a suspicious parcel which
turned out to be innocent. We were ourselves (in our
other capacity as BBC journalist) the intended victim
of a bombing attack by the IRA a few years ago when a
bomb exploded under our desk, fortunately we'd
evacuated at the time.
Years of Irish Republican terrorism have left the
English blase about the dangers though few have
forgotten America's support for the the IRA and view
America's current anti-terrorism stance with some
cynicism. In general most Britons think Bush's gung-ho
militaristic stance is making the world a much less
safe place: we're not lax on terrorism but we know
retributive policy hasn't worked in the Middle East,
Asia nor South America. Intelligence and
hearts-and-minds works best. You should have no
worries about living or working in London
Theatre: see our entertainments
page.
Tickets and Queues: it is vital that you think
about how you intend to spend your time in London
(even if you just want to be relaxed and not plan
anything) as ticket prices are high for major
attractions, and the queues long. Our advice is HERE
Tipping: waiters, hairdressers and taxidrivers
(as well as the usual bellhops) are traditional
targets of tipping. However as Taxis in London are
more expensive than anywhere in the world , according
to official statistics, and as Taxi drivers earn
upwards of £70k ($100k) a year we think it's
asking too much to expect a tip from poorer people.
Hairdressers and waiting-on staff get low base
salaries and 10% should suffice, if service is good.
Don't expect the level of service common to the US,
nor the meanness of the Germanic countries, where
they'll charge for tapwater. England is not a haggling
or a tipping culture.
Trains: for everything about trains see the
excellent Seat61 Website , truly a
labour of love. When booking use the 'cheapest fare'
option at www.nationalrail.co.uk
Travelcards: unlimited travel on Buses, Tubes
and Trains, including the DLR. Buy from any tube
station. Can be combined with an admission ticket to
several attractions with savings, not least on queuing
time. But it is better to buy an oystercard as it is
uasually easier and gives you FREE TRAVEL FOR
CHILDREN.! An oystercard only charges you for travel
up to the cost of a travelcard and then all trips are
free.
Tourist offices:
Central: 1 Regent Street, near Piccadilly Circus,
Victoria Station forecourt: tel 0207 375 2549.
Liverpool Street (underground station) tel: 0207 932
2020.
Southwark: Southeast tip of London Bridge (look for
pointy sculpture).
If you are planning to visit Madame Tussauds or other
such attractions buy tickets here in advance - it will
save you hours of queueing.
Tourist Organisations: as with all 'official'
tourist entities the rule is 'caveat emptor'. These
organisations exist to make tourists part with their
money. Several local 'official' tourist boards have
been prosecuted for misrepresentation (in one
notorious case a seaside town photographically 'added'
a delightful blue expanse of sea to their front when
in reality there are merely several miles of mudflats)
but this was a rare case - most 'official' tourist
organisations are merely guilty of exaggeration.
For facts they are usually OK, but they will
not tell you what's not worth the trip. The numerous
leaflets and posters should also be treated with the
same caution. Most tourist activities are 'one off' -
ie no-one cares whether you have a good time - you're
unlikely to be repeating the experience. Rely on
impartial guide books (ie ones that aren't afraid to
criticise poor value/service) and on word-of-mouth
when deciding what to see.
And don't be misled by the attempts of London to
create itself as a 'brand' - it's best to see things
for what they really are, rather than get your
opinions pre-formed. A case in point is Buckingham
Palace, which time and time again is criticised by
independent bodies and guidebooks (such as ourselves)
as a really poor attraction, but is strongly promoted
as a 'must see' and relies on brand-recognition rather
than rational thought
Transport - see our transport page.
U
Underground: stops running at midnight, earlier
on Sundays. See our
transport page.
V
VAT - visitors from outside the European Union
can get a refund of VAT (not the same as sales tax)
paid on goods they take back home with them (ie Hotel
bills are not included). Many shops operate a scheme -
keep receipts and claim at the point of exit - refund
bureaux at all the airports.
Value, Quality and other words and phrases
usually mean the opposite: real quality goods don't
advertise the fact - it's not the British way. In fact
the quality of goods is usually in inverse proportion
to the amount of advertising. For instance a brand
advertising itself as 'Purveyors of quality goods to
the gentry since 1898' is likely to turn out to have
been selling cheap factory-made goods to the
lumpenproletariat since Christmas. Tourists are often
taken in by descriptions like this, many brands are
only made for tourists and Brits wouldn't be seen dead
with them. The only exceptions are Royal Warrants -
the Royal family's seal of approval which usually
reflects quality rather than taste (the Royals are
Naff).
W
Wargraves:
Poppy Travel does trips to visit war graves and
battle sites in northern France and Belgium.
Watch repairers: The best and cheapest
specialists cluster round the intersection of Goswell
St and Old Street, just north of the Barbican. For a
quick strap repair or battery change try Debenhans
department store, Oxford Street, or Berwick St market,
just 100 metres north of Shaftsbury Avenue.
Water: safe to drink everywhere. I think many
were surprised when Thames water (no not directly from
the Thames) came second in a national blind tasting.
London tap water is extremely clean - cleaner than
bottled water, measured by bacterial count. Tap water
(admittedly from more rural areas) frequently
outclasses premium bottled waters on blind taste
tests.
Weather: get a report here. Despite a glorious 2010
summer (for a change) the weather remains fickle. It
rains one day in three on average. Never plan an
outdoors event in advance - it'll be rained off Our
Rain Gods are quite mischievious. Americans should not
complain about the extremes of British climate as they
will be largely held responsible (one retort overheard
in pub went along the lines of - gas guzzlers - cheap
petrol - imbecile president - falsified evidence -
unscrupulous scientists - corrupt politicians - hope
your house gets destroyed in a a tornado. See also
terrorism.)
Webcams See our webcams page.
What's On: the BBC does an excellent guide and
listing service which can be found HERE. See also our Entertainment pages.
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