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A WEEK IN LONDON
If you've got a week to spend in London you're lucky
- you'll have time to just wander, time to go outside
central London, even explore London's immediate
neighbours. As accommodation is very expensive in
London you may want to consider a night or two away,
unless you've got a deal with your hotel. One thing to
bear in mind is the change in rhythm that occurs at
weekends in London: if you like markets, both
'swinging sixties' style like Camden and Spitalfields
or the more and antiquey sort like Portobello road
then these only happen at weekends - if you hate
markets it's a good time to get out of London for a
bit. We love London's markets and every weekend sees
us visiting at least one - as much for the buzz as for
the business.
Things only happening at weekends (see also
our markets section):
Portobello road market: SATURDAY
ONLY - lovely 1960's feel to this
antiques/vegetable/bric-a-brac market only held on
Saturday - it's a happening place and though on a
purely antique level it can't compete with Paris'
Clignacourt - it is a great place to spend a couple of
hours exploring and good for lunch. The general area
is very upmarket - loads of filmstars, popstars and
old money lives round here. In the film 'Notting Hill'
it was painted in very bourgeois, WASP-ish colours -
in reality it's also a very black area (though where
the black upper classes live) - featured in the novels
of Martin Amis, Colin MacInnes (of 'Absolute
Beginners' fame) and as a trendy watering hole in the
Bridget Jones series (a very accurate portrayal). It's
also VERY crowded so unless you're going for the
crowds, try to go in the morning.
Camden Market: - only
weekends, Saturday is generally quieter. Again very
busy, huge expanse of markets - it's an attraction in
its own right for the punks, new romantics, goths and
clubbers who hang out here, often in outrageous
costumes. We love it, though it can also be a bit
overpowering. Everything on sale from books to boob
tubes (lots of the latest clubwear as well as rock
nostalgia), furniture to foccettia, tapestry to
torques - well, just everything under the sun. There's
a lot of tat but some genuine bargains - if you like
african or Indian arts and crafts, paintings or kelims
then it's probably the cheapest place to buy it. (If
you're looking for African art Email us for some
further ideas). You can take a canal trip (or walk
down the canal, through the zoo) to 'Little Venice'
(best not to do it when there are no leaves on the
trees), or combine it with a walk via Parliament Hill
(great panorama) Regent's park and down to Baker
Street.
Greenwich Market - you can
visit the attractions of Greenwich any time, but it's
best at weekends when in addition to the Naval
Academy, Painted Hall, Observatory, Maritime Museum
(now free) and Observatory, there's a lively central
market and a good atmosphere on the river with some
great pubs. At any time Greenwich is not a good place
to eat though.
Columbia Road Flower market/Brick
Lane: SUNDAY ONLY - you won't be buying
flowers, but it's a trendy place for Sunday Brunch
(it's only open Sunday mornings til about 1400 - when
a special tube station opens also just to cope with
the crowds) it's traditionally followed by a stroll
down Brick Lane, through the old immigrant section,
settled by Hugenot weavers after the St Bartholomew's
Day massacre in Paris - with totally unique
architecture. The South End of Brick Lane could be in
Bangladesh, the north end could be New York's East
Village - the Old Truman's Brewery (walkway across
street and large chimney) markes the frontier. The
architecture around Brick Lane/Spitalfieldsis unique
for Britain, from the 18th century Princelet St to
19th century Spitalfields Market
- a huge Victorian fruit market, now a slightly hippy
Sunday market, under threat from developers - and
where a lot of top artists have their studios. Gilbert
and George (see illustration to 'Tate Modern' in our
Galleries section) hang about here. The nearby
Petticoat lane market is really not worth visiting -
it's the sort of tawdry goods you can find in any
street market in the world. The word 'tawdry' in fact
comes from St Audrey's fair - which was notorious for
its shoddy goods. The Geffreye Museum (good vietnamese
restaurants nearby) is near Colombia Road and
Spitalfields is a good place to explore the City from
- a must is the very well preserved area around
Folgate Street (very often a filmset) which is exactly
as it was when Jack The Ripper was a lad about town.
There's an outdoor skating rink (a miniature
Guggenheim) in the Broadgate Center, above Liverpool
St Station - in winter obviously.
For hardcore enthusiasts a circuit of: Liverpool St
station - train to London Fields, walk back south to
Broadway Market (good french delicatessan/cafe, good
brunchy pubs and restaurants. Then continue south
through Hackney City Farm (restaurant there won best
family restaurant of the year 2005..) to Colombia
road, along Colombia road then South to Brick Lane,
Hugenot district, Spitalfields market and back to
Liverpool Street station - see an AtoZ map or go HERE for mapping it out - you
may need to expand the map both south and north to get
the whole route.
Rest of the Week: use our Planning page to work out
what you're going to do - we've grouped attractions
that are close to each other and can easily be done in
2-3 hour chunks, leaving time for aimless
wandering/lunch/pubs. If you're adventurous you could
just spend three to four days doing our Walks, where we plot a
route around the best attractions and sights - if
you've done our walks you won't have missed anything
much.
We also recommend you look at our trips page and consider a
half day or whole day away from London. Our Ultimate Daytrip, though it
involves hiring a car for a day, gives you a host of
other attractions from the hallowed cloisters of
Oxford to the ancient stones of Stonehenge and some
lesser-known (but better) old parts of England,
including the place where St George slew the dragon.
It's one of our favourite days out.
If you're more adventurous, you can spend a night away
from London and see Cambridge and some of the oldest
and weirdest parts of Olde England on our Norfolk Overnighter
trip. Involves hiring a car again, but we recommend it
because we love it and do it ourselves.
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