GETTING OUT OF LONDON
"When a man is tired of London he
is tired of life; for there is in London all
that life can afford" -
Samuel Johnson, 1777
Although London has all you could ever need, it's
still great to get out of the city - daytrips by train
are inexpensive if started after 10am and if you have
a Network Southeast Card. Ask for a "cheap day return"
and show your card at the ticket office. Over 60s also
get reduced travel throughout Britain (not just the
Southeast region) with a Senior railcard which may be
a better buy for this age group. Bus services are also
cheap and reliable - but are at the mercy of traffic.
Hiring a car is a viable proposition but parking can
be a problem - see our A-Z page
for details. Currently we recommend Streetcar. That
said following years of cuts in the railway service,
many beautiful places are not really accessible by
train.
New for 2003 is the possibility of day trips (eg
Canterbury, Salisbury, Bath) by Steam Train -
see here for details - more costly
than other outings but if you're a fan of steam you
probably won't care! They run just as fast as electric
or diesel, by the way.
The English Heritage website is a
good place to plan specific visits.
Top easy daytrips outside of London:
1) Hampton
Court - magnificent palace built
by a succession of kings from Henry VIII onwards.
Given to the public by Queen Victoria it boasts a
succession of exquisite rooms, mediaeval kitchens, the
famous maze, 'real tennis' courts and beautiful
gardens. The palace is less than 5 minutes from
Hampton Court station, which is 30 minutes from
Waterloo. You can take a boat trip there - takes about
3 1/2 hours. Worth half a day. Picnic in nearby Bushey
Park. Website
2) The Daytrip
- We've worked out what we think is the ultimate
roadtrip. The dreaming spires of Oxford, standing
stone circles at Stonehenge and Avebury, the gothic
cathedral of Salisbury, beautiful thatched villages
like Upavon, amazing countryside where Druids still
hold ceremonies - in one day you can see them all -
sadly only by car. If you have one day to get out of
London this is it. To see what's in store click HERE. For
a good two day trip with overnight see here
3) Cambridge.
Simply stunning old university town with 30 or so
colleges, dating back to the 13th century. Oxford
may be slightly older, but with the river running
through 'The Backs' and the market-town ambiance
Cambridge is a better bet - not just because our
editor studied there! You certainly wouldn't want to
spend time visiting both (our daytrip sees the main
highlights of Oxford anyway and a host besides).
It's also an ideal way to experience tradition and
history - as well as rubbing shoulders with the
brainiest people in the world. About one hour by
train. Worth a whole day though you could fit it
into a half day, especially if the weather's not
good. Some colleges make a small admission charge. More details Also features
on our Norfolk overnighter.
4) Brighton
- Georgian seaside town, famous for its meandering
'Lanes' - a royal playground. A lively gay community
means there's always something going on and the food
is above average. Not really the place to get a
sense of 'Olde England' - but a better bet for
shopaholics - a large jewelry sector. 1 hour from
London Bridge, worth half a day. You can also
explore the 'White Cliffs' coastline from here. The
only negative thing about Brighton is that it thinks
too highly of itself, and got a mention in 'The
Idler guide to crap towns' for that reason. Tourist Information.
5) Windsor
Castle
- famous for the being world's
largest inhabited castle, largely restored after a
huge fire. Little else to do there though. If you're
into castles a day trip to Warwick (easily do-able
by train) might be a better bet, though, of course,
it's not inhabited by the Queen. The Bard's
birthplace of Stratford on Avon is very close to
Warwick though Stratford itself is not very
accessible for a daytrip from London unless you
could go and see a matinee at the RSC - there is no
way of getting back to London by public transport
after 2100 and the evening shows finish later than
that. Website
See also our Round the UK
page for further trips and touring the UK
Overnighters/Dirty Weekends
We get asked a lot to recommend overnight or
weekend trips out of London. These are all personal
recommendations - places we've visited and enjoyed
and whre we've got feedback from people we've sent
there. You might even bump into us there! If you
have time to give us your feedback it helps.
Apologies in advance if 'charming' is overused - we
like being charmed.....
Our most recent destinations are are :
Whitstable, Kent - fishing village famed for
its seafood. 1'20' from Victoria. Stay at The
Captain's House (a fisherman's cottage
converted into a B & B 01227 275 156 - often
booked up) or The
Continental
Hotel 10227 280280 - try to get one of the
converted fishermen's huts if possible. Whitstable
is also good for a daytrip to sample the food.
Wootton Rivers - out in Wiltshire, miles and
miles off the beaten track, if you want to explore
the surrounding area (Avebury, Marlborough etc)
you'll need a car, but you can access Wootton Rivers
by train, stopping at West End, and then 4 miles by
taxi (prebook!). Stay at the Royal Oak
who can arrange taxis. This once thriving
village has lost most of its life to yuppie
weekenders and bankers with huge undeserved bonuses
and the Royal Oak is now the only place to stay, but
the village has gained in picturesqueness and
tranquility. The ideal place for sexual dalliance
(from personal recommendation...)
Southwold- charming small town on the Suffolk
coast, 2h30 out of London (train to Halesworth then
taxi) stay at the Crown
we've done this trip ourselves several times.
Aldeburgh- another charming fishing village,
south of Southwold, with a huge intellectual and
cultural heritage - Benjamin Britten lived and is
buried there (we go up to lay flowers once every few
years) with his male partner, Peter Pears. Imogen
Holst is also buried nearby. Very active music and
arts scene in the town and in nearby Snape Maltings.
Again better by car, but train to Saxmundham (two
hours from Liverpool St) and taxi (6 miles)
possible. Eat at the Lighthouse
(serves til late) with its friendly eccentric foodie
owner, often amusingly sozzled by the end of the
evening. If you want to do the whole hog, see a
concert or dance/theatre/opera event at Snape
Maltings and dine afterwards. Stay at the White Lion.
By the way a dirty weekend is a trip organised
around having sex, and has nothing to do with
off-road cycling, though time is spend in the
saddle, it is to much better effect. Read this
article for more details and this
one
for recommendations on how to do a dirty
weekend if you're already married.
Other Trips
Greenwich Not
really out of London, but there's plenty to see in
this village on the river with a proud maritime
history. Go by river and come back by the Dockland's
Light Railway (or vice versa). The DLR runs through
the old docks on the north side of the river, as
well as Canary Wharf - a futuristic development (the
tube station there won a major architectural award)
and the trip is really worth it - try to get a front
or rear seat on this driverless train. Should you
travel by normal overland train you are on the first
passenger railway... the arches that take trains out
to Greenwich were originally built in the 1840s, and
the section between Deptford and Bermondsey Spa (no
longer a station) is the world's oldest.
Landmarks here include the Cutty Sark (not worth
going inside), the Maritime Museum (see Museums) the old Naval
Academy - recently restored, the splendid Painted
Hall of the Naval Academy, recently sold to a
polytechnic which became 'Greenwich University' -
the beautiful buildings belie a bad academic
reputation. The park, and
Queen's House (where Queen Elizabeth spent her
childhood) are delightful, with formal & wild
gardens and a deer park, and the markets (Saturdays,
and, better, Sundays) are worth pottering around.
However, in a major act of cultural vandalism, the
interior decorations of the Queen's Apartments have
been ripped out and replaced with a display of
third-rate naval paintings. Most visitors have
registered complaints, ourselves included. The old
apartments were unique and superb, the house is now
strangely deserted - many of the paintings are
laughably bad.
Make sure you have a drink in 'The Trafalgar Tavern'
on the waterfront or the nearby 'Cutty Sark Pub'.
There's also, next to a horrid power station on the
waterfront a rare set of almshouses with a
courtyard, which date from 1600. There's the
Ranger's House at the top of the park, bordering
Blackheath - a beautiful village that's a poor
cousin to Hampstead with many spectacular houses
(esp. in Blackheath Park). Notable is the Paragon -
an arcade of beautiful houses which you will
recognise from countless period films and BBC drama
series. Nearby is Morden College, a large set of
alsmshouses laid out like an Oxbridge college with
several quads. Greenwich is notoriously bad for food
though there are a couple of cheap noodle bars on
the main road, just north of the covered market, and
the Chinese restaurant nearest to the DLR station
does 'huge plates of filling cheap nosh'.
Tunbridge Wells
Area Georgian Spa town only one
hour from London by train - worth half a day - no
more than an hour for the town's old quarter, and
the rest to visit one of the nearby castles and stately homes that
cluster round this part of Kent. In Tunbridge itself
there's the famous 'Pantiles' district, and spa (the
water, high in copper is still as foul now as it was
then - it was a reputed cure for infertility), where
the King often repaired - once the height of
fashion. But Tunbridge itself isn't worth more than
an hour's stay, if that, spend your time in the
surrounding countryside, with its beautiful
villages, churches and castles/stately homes.. Might
be worth hiring a car (do it in Tunbridge to avoid
London traffic jams) if you want to make the most of
the region - though most of the attractions are
accessible by public transport - it just takes
longer. Tourist Information
|
HEVER - CHIDDINGSTONE - PENSHURST
A typical trip, easily accessible by train
is to go to Hever station (from Charing
Cross or London Bridge), follow the 'Eden
Valley Walk' (a national public footpath) to
Hever village and visit the castle. It's a
small, almost doll's-house building and much
renovated in 1908, and a little touristy -
and with the worst restaurant we've
experienced for some time. It does give the
impression of an inhabited home though. It's
where Ann Bolyen grew up and where Henry
VIII probably conceived Elizabeth I. Kids
would love the water maze, and the extensive
gardens are lovely.
From Hever Castle, through the churchyard
where the Bullen family are buried, there's
a footpath through the fields to
Chiddingstone, a beautiful Kentish village
with a nice pub and church and a castle of
its own, then on to Penshurst, a superb
large castle/stately home (Penshurst Place)
with excellent tearooms. The Church is also
exceptional.
The whole walk takes about 3-4 hours, and if
you factor in an hour at each of the castles
it's a very pleasant day out. The
countryside you walk through is wonderful,
the villages quaint - but there's little
good food to be had. The Village pub in
Hever does reasonable Ploughman's Lunches
and there's good cream teas in the Fir Tree
Tearooms in Penshurst. Acceptable food can
also be had at the Castle Inn. (see below).
Return by walking 2 kms (or taking a taxi or
bus) to Leigh (pronounced Lye) station or
Penshurst Station. The entire route is
easily cyclable, by following the roads. If
you print off these maps they show you the
route. MAP ONE MAP TWO
MAP THREE.
The Castle Inn in
Chiddingstone has a nice circular walk too
from Hever (which makes it easier to buy a
rail ticket return - try a day return to
'Edenbridge Stations' on the automatic
machines) - for details, and a printable map
see their website
|
Triple
Trip You
can combine Kew House and Gardens, Marble Hill House
and Ham House in one easy trip as they are close by
each other, a few miles from the centre in the suburb
of Richmond . Is a half-day trip which you can easily
extend if the weather is fine. See our historic page for
details of Marble Hill and Ham Houses.
Take the train from Waterloo to Richmond and change to
the tube (you can also take the tube all the way
there, but it's slower) to go one stop to Kew Gardens. Visit
the house and gardens - including the herb garden and
the conservatories. Back by tube to Richmond
[NB An Alternative plan would be to take the
train to Kew Bridge Station (where there's a Steam
Museum), cross Kew Bridge to visit Kew Gardens, take
the train on again to Syon Lane, visit Syon Park and
House - with its sumptuous interiors - and take the
foot ferry at the southernmost tip of Syon Park
across to The Old Deer Park (and golf course). Head
for the Royal Observatory and thence in a straight
line to Richmond Village and station. This takes you
across the Old Deer Park, if open, if not you'll
have to walk along the towpath for 500 metres to the
approved path to Richmond Village - it's all very
clearly signposted). From here you can take the
train one stop to St Margarets. There are also
connecting trains between Syon Lane and St Margarets
train stations, trains about every 15 mins, some
require a change at Putney. Journey Time 20-25
minutes].
From Richmond it's one stop on the train to
St Margarets. Turn right out of the station and follow
the signs to Marble Hill (remember it closes
13:00-14:00 for lunch), visit the house there, and
continue on down to the towpath along the Thames. Turn
right (ie away from Richmond which you will see on
your left) and walk for 5 minutes to the foot ferry
(open 10:00-18:00 every day Feb-Oct, and weekends all
year round, 50p for an adult, 30p for a child, "first
dog free") once you're on the other side of the river
Ham House is clearly marked. You'll need about an hour
here - make sure you watch the free video
presentation. If you're a garden fanatic, there are
free tours twice daily. The Gardens are open
11:00-17:00 and the house 13:00-17:00 Sat-Wed. You'll
need an hour.
Then either retrace your steps to St Margaret's
station (the nearest) or walk along the towpath (25
mins) to Richmond - a pleasant small town with a nice
village green from where you can take a train back to
the centre. If you've bought a Network Southeast card
(see our transport page) your all-zone tube pass
(valid also on the trains) will be discounted as will
individual train tickets.
Stately Homes outside London
Ightham Mote
Best as part of a day trip to
Tunbridge Wells and the surrounding area - easiest
if you hire a car. A superb moated manor house,
nestling in a sunken valley and dating from 1340
onwards. The Great Hall, old chapel and crypt, Tudor
chapel with painted ceiling, drawing room with
Jacobean fireplace, and the library are excellent.
There is an extensive garden and interesting walks
to be had in the surrounding woodland. Can be
accessed by bus from Tunbridge Wells. Entry:
£7 Website (full travel details,
opening etc) ~ Photos.
Knole As part of a Tunbridge
daytrip. Beautiful old stately house, set in a
magnificent deer park. Dates from the 15th-century,
and was enlarged and embellished in 1603 by the 1st
Earl of Dorset, one of Queen Elizabeth's
'favourites', and has remained unaltered ever since
- a rare survival. The thirteen state rooms open to
the public contain magnificent collections:
17th-century royal Stuart furniture, including three
state beds, silver furniture and the prototype of
the famous Knole Settee, outstanding tapestries and
textiles, and important portraits by Van Dyck,
Gainsborough, Lely, Kneller and Reynolds. Much nicer
than the National Trust website would suggest.
You can easily do this in a half-day trip: 30 mins
to Sevenoaks from Charing Cross Station, 15 minute
walk through the charming town (or short taxi/bus
ride) to the House, onwards on train to Tunbridge
Wells and back to London. We re-visited in Autumn
2005, did everything easily and were very impressed
with the house. CAN ALL EASILY BE DONE ON PUBLIC
TRANSPORT (Get a Network Southeast rail discount
card if there are 2 or moe of you - see our
transport page for details). Entry: £7 Website (full travel
details, opening etc)
Audley End
Audley End was one of the great wonders of the
nation when it was built by the first Earl of
Suffolk, Lord Treasurer to James I. It was on the
scale of a great royal palace, and soon became one
after Charles II bought it in 1668 for
£50,000, using it as a base when he attended
the races at Newmarket. Returned to the Suffolks
after his death, substantial parts of the house were
demolished. Even so, what remains is one of the most
significant Jacobean houses in England. Audley End's
current interior with its historic picture
collection and furniture is largely the product of
its owner in the mid-19th century, the third Lord
Braybrooke. Saffron Walden, Essex. As it's near
Cambridge, just off the M11 motorway, could be
combined with a trip there. See also our Norfolk overnighter trip.
Entry £6.50 ~ Official Website
Leeds
Castle Much hyped, and
certainly pretty in a good light (golden hour, one
hour before sunset) but it's not as large as it
might appear and it's very commercial. It's also an
hour out of town with not much else around - but you
could combine it with a trip to Canterbury (in which
case have a seafood lunch at Whitstable on the
coast) if you had a car. Their website has more details
Other
daytrip ideas
The town of Cambridge
lies, as its name suggests, on the river Cam, which
winds its way through many of the colleges along the
'Backs'. The train station is over a mile from the
centre, so catch a bus - there's nothing worth
seeing on the way. The town is conveniently arranged
in the form of a circuit - most of the colleges are
off it on either side, though you should walk along
Queen's Road as well - the classic view towards
King's College Chapel is from here.
To do the circuit you need to alight from the bus at
Emmanuel College - ask the bus driver for the
nearest stop. From there, (John Harvard's Old
College) stopping to explore the colleges on route,
walk down St Andrew's Street. Christ's College is on
your right - make sure you walk through to the
gardens. CP Snow's novel 'The Masters' is set here.
Further up Sidney Street (Sidney Sussex College -
only the front quad is worth the
trip).
Divert right onto Jesus Lane to see Jesus (Prince
Edward 'studied' here) then back on route following
Sidney Street as it becomes Bridge Street and to the
river. Here it's worth viewing both sides of
Magdalene College (pronounced "Maudlin"). Pepys'
Diary is in the beautiful old Library. Then head
back down Bridge Street (perhaps refreshing yourself
at the 'Baron of Beef' pub) towards St Johns
(Architecture is very Henry VIII).
The road forks at Johns onto St John's Street, which
becomes Trinity Street, and eventually King's
Parade. You should visit Johns, Trinity (the richest
college, and the country's third largest landowner,
reputedly) and Gonville & Caius (the rear of the
college is the old bit) and then onto King's College
(don't miss the chapel, try to attend evensong,
early afternoon on Sundays) and Clare.
From here cross the river again by going all the way
through the college and walk along the backs towards
Queens. The circuit finishes at Corpus Christi back
on Trumpington Street. For a bite to eat visit
'Browns' a favourite student haunt on Trumpington
Street, near the Fitzwilliam Museum.
Many of the colleges have good websites, even
offering virtual tours:
Christs Corpus
Caius
Johns
Kings Magdalene
Queens Trinity
Other Overnighters (not necessarily
dirty)
Norfolk Overnighter
This trip takes in some of the best
preserved parts of England, where historic villages
have largely escaped the ravages of tourism. We
overnight in Blakeney in the area of North Norfolk
dubbed by some as England's answer to the Hamptons.
Beautiful seaside villages, good food and old
churches are the order of the day - and it's cheaper
than other parts of Britain, largely due to to
London's second-homers who raise the tone a bit and
provide continuity of income for local traders. For
an al;ternative see our daytrip - there's an
optional night in a country pub...
Norfolk used to be the richest part of England and
for a long time overshadowed London due to the
predominance of the wool trade. The legacy of the
huge income that generated is evident in the large
number of old abbeys (most now ruined) castles and
houses in the area. Practically every ten miles
there's a national monument. It was also a
significant place of pilgrimage and has Britain's
'National Shrine' at Walsingham, quite the strangest
place in England.
Take the M11 motorway out of the North East of
London. Practically any road that heads east out of
London hits it or one of its tributaries the A10,
A11 or A12 - signposted Cambridge. A
motorway-standard dual carriageway runs from
Greenwich to Loughton due north up the eastern edge
of London by Docklands - it eventually becomes the
M11.
Off the M11 are Cambridge and Audley End - choose one for
your outward journey and one for your return. Both
are off the M11 and clearly signposted. When
visiting Cambridge you must see the Chapel at Kings College, visit
Queen's and Trinity Colleges and walk along the
backs as a minimum. Other colleges you can see by
poking your head in through the porters' lodge.
After visiting one or the other take the A10 north -
your next port of call is Ely, and its magnificent
cathedral (sadly there's an admission charge),
birthplace of Oliver Cromwell (the museum is tacky)
- the area round the Cathedral, the grounds and the
facing onto the high street are all worth a visit.
Food is best at the Old Fire Station close to the
museum. There are plenty of places to have tea.
Next on route is King's Lynn - whose
old town is worth half an hour - it used to be much
more important than it is now - it's really only a
rest stop before we hit the north coast of Norfolk
at Hunstanton, and follow the road round. We pass
the Queen's Country home of Sandringham - if you're taken
with the area the Queen lets out holiday cottages on
her estate - how's that for a landlady. You can
visit the house, built in 1870 by the Prince and
Princess of Wales, later King Edward VII and Queen
Alexandra and the Royal Stud (no, not Prince
Charles) from mid-April to the end of October.
North Norfolk has been called the Hamptons - only
colder, as it's become a rich man's escape from
London, strangely it's not exclusive or expensive,
though if you want to spend money here there are
plenty of local traders who'll be pleased to help.
The two nicest places are Burnham Market - known for
its delicatessens, snug hotels (and smug hotelliers)
restaurants, and Blakeney - a delightful seaside
village totally unspoilt, and boasting several good
hotels, the White Horse (01263 740574) is
the place to eat and sleep there, though the
Blakeney Hotel (**** and expensive) has plenty of
rooms, and failing that the George (tel: 01263 741275
- website often down, sadly) round in
Cley-next-the-sea is in the process of being
upgraded - it's a brilliant country pub - very
friendly and with good food - which is world-famous
as a birdwatchers haunt, and is slowly trying to
shake off that image. Other accommodation ideas can
be found here The walk around the
seafront between Cley ( beautiful
village with windmill) and Blakeney is a must,
offering beautiful views of the villages, church and
the port. This spot is our favourite place outside
of London, and as such deserves treating well - it
pays to act genteel as well as gentle. You can take
a trip out to see the seals, and swim with them if
the water's not too cold.
Cycling (it's very flat) is the best way to explore
the region if you have the time or energy - there
are plenty of bike hire places but Walsingham's in
Wells is a good bet. All round here are beautiful
villages (eg Binham - great village, another big
ruined priory, or Burnham Thorpe, birthplace of
Nelson), churches and monuments to discover - there
are so many it's best to follow your nose and make
your own discoveries. Holkham Hall, an 18th century
Palladian manor is worth a visit, the estate is
sumptuous.
Holt, a village south of them has a superb hotel and
a fantastic chef at Morston Hall for special meals -
though throughout the region the quality of local
food and food shops is extremely high - seafood a
specialty. The delicatessen at Cley and the plethora
of food shops in Burnham Market are the places
to buy for picnics.
South of them all is Walsingham - the
strangest place in England, and with an aura of
authenticity that shows up many other oddities like
Glastonbury. It has been a place of pilgrimage since
1061 when a knight had a
vision which led him to establish a shrine to the
virgin there. The holy waters became the sine
qua non of mediaeval travelers and the road between
Walsingham and London was the best maintained in the
whole of the country. The village itself is
exquisite but the added value of competing religions
(even the Orthadox church has set up here, and you
can buy icons of Ghandi and Harvey milk in one of the many
religious artifact shops). It's bizarre to see the
streets teeming with befrocked men of many
denominations, we even caught a prelate leafing
through the chasubles in a secondhand vestment shop.
The various shrines do different religious functions
and when there's a sign saying 'Sprinkling Today'
outside the Anglican shrine you can get
professionally sprinkled with holy water (something
officially abjured by the Protestant church, but
overlooked here) instead of scooping it up yourself
at the Catholic shrine or at the Old Shrine, where
it's dirtier. The local school does a virtual tour.
On the way back (along the A1065 south of Fakenham)
stop for tea in Castle Acre - once home of one of
the biggest Priories in the country (now the biggest
set of ruins) which if you're a pile of stones fan
you can visit - also the Castle at the other end of
the village is a pleasant ruin. Back to London via
Swaffham, Thetford Wood to join the M11 at
Cambridge. There are castles, ruins and Stately Homes
a-plenty along the route so do detour if you have
the time.
Bath
Beautiful
Georgian City in the west country, with an
immaculate centre (largely because all undesirable
elements have been moved out and hidden behind a
wall) the scene of so many BBC costume dramas and
period films we've lost count. The baths, pump room
and other beautiful buildings are fantastic, and the
crescents masterpieces of Georgian Architecture ( we
prefer landsdowne Crescent, nu a hill from the Royal
Crescent but more beautiful. Very crowded with
tourists in summer. We recommend Apsley House Hotel
from personal experience. 1 hour 20 minutes
from Paddington Station by fast train. If you are
driving then you can visit Oxford, Stonehenge and
other bits of our one day trip (below) and try
stopping off in the charming village of Corsham
(nice country house, almshouses and very cheap
parking.
You could head from Bath via bristol and Chepstow up
through Shropshire en route to the North (say
London, Bath, Ludlow Chester, The Lake district, the
Yorkshire Dales, Lindisfarne, Edinburgh, Oban Skye
if you were planning to 'do' the UK by car... Website
Stratford-upon-Avon
Birthplace of
Shakespeare and home of the Royal Shakespeare
Company (they also play a season in London too) with
a large number of old buildings - although the town
can get a bit touristy, with the likes of Anne
Hathaway's Tea Cottage, it's still very much worth a
visit, especially if you take in a play at the RSC.
If you're a keen theatre goer go up about
15:00, see a show that evening, explore the town the
next morning and take in a matinee and another
evening show - we do! About 2 hours 10 minutes
by fast train from Marylebone Station. It is
impossible to get back to London by public transport
after about 2100 so you can only see an evening show
if you have a car or stay over. Website
This website has details on
the countryside between Stratford and Bath, should
you want to stray, or travel by car
A day trip to the historic mediaeval walled city of
Chester
is possible by train from London (book your train
ticket 7 days in advance for a cheap seat) - takes
about 2 hours. Free bus from the station to the town
centre. Famous for the Roman walls, the Racecourse,
the oldest in the country, and the 'rows'. As the
town was an outpost against the marauding Welsh, it
was limited in size by the walls - the ingenious
solution was to build a second city on top of the
old one, with covered walkways - an architectural
feature not found anywhere else in the world. The
trouble is it's a solution to space constraints
which has been adopted by every shopping mall in the
world, but Chester's is more elegant. The latest
historical research posits Chester as the site of
Camelot, King Arthur/Uther's round table, which
appears to have been situated in the now rather
unimpressive amphitheatre. This trounces claims by
Glastonbury (monks after money to rebuild their
monastery) and Winchester (medieval fantasy).
Apparently the round 'table' was an early parliament
of up to 1000 people (posh ones at the front, poorer
relatives at the back). It was on the History
Channel so it must be true.
The town's tourist office has permitted some
dreadful touristy attractions, the town council,
ridden with freemasonry has suffered from decades of
corruption and incompetance (like demolishing the
town's theatre to build a luxury hotel) but even so
it's one of the country's top tourist spots, even if
York does it all a lot better. For details on york see our Round
Britain pages. It also two excellent restaurants,
the Arkle in the Grovesnor Hotel tel: 01244 324024
(though the brasserie there is almost as good),
owned by the UK's richest man, the Duke of
Westminster. And the incredibly hip Oddfellows
with stunning interiors, including a room that's
completely upside down.
The Lake
District: a very beautiful part of
the UK. If you plan ahead a bit you can get a single
ticket London - Oxenholme for under £20 (I
did, in August 2009...) which makes it quite
economical. For all poets our there it's where you wander lonely
as a cloud, though in my experience the
clouds are rarely lonely in that part of the UK - it
gets 8M visitors, but it's remarkably easy to avoid
the crowds if you plan your walks carefully. See the
excellent lakes website for details -
free maps, pictures, walks, etc etc. Don't get
caught in the main tourist areas like Windermere,
try Buttermere or Though at least near the coast the
gulf stream means palm trees grow naturally. AndyFellWalker has some
good info.
Do the
UK by Car (or train)
With train fares to Scotland costing more and more
(unless you bag an early and restricted bargain) the
UK by car is a nice prospect. Most legs take under 2
hours, and the one that's longer is a scenic route.
However a shortened version of this is possible for
a bargain price by train if you book early enough.
Paris
Strange as it may seem, with the new Eurostar
service taking about 2 hours 10 mins to deliver you
from the centre of London to the centre of Paris, a
day trip is easy - and costs about £75 if you
book it in advance. See our Paris
page for details. It's little more to go for
one or more nights. The train from St Pancras
International is of a high standard, and whisks you
away to Paris' Gare du Nord - but remember they're
an hour ahead in Paris so make sure you leave early
enough for lunch. You'll discover why Brits take
their holidays abroard - hotels are at least 50%
cheaper and the food's a lot better Euro for Euro,
we also think French women look a darn sight better
than their English counterparts, but maybe that's
something for another website..
Search this site:
|